Guide author
James Whitmore
London-based travel and culture writer. Previously a cartographer for a walking tour company, now writes about cities with a map in one hand and a pint in the other. Covers the UK, Ireland, Scandinavia, and English-speaking cities.
Overview
Begin your journey at Dunbar's Close, just off the bustling Royal Mile. This quiet garden oasis is a proof of Edinburgh's many layers. As you descend into the hidden chambers of The Real Mary King's Close, the holds of the past seem to echo off the stone walls. The curving cobblestone of Cockburn Street leads you through a cascade of charming shops. Ascend to Calton Hill for a sweeping view of the city's iconic skyline. Explore the kirkyards of Greyfriars and Canongate, each suffused with stories that most visitors miss. Continue to Leith, where you'll find a different pace along the waterfront. This Edinburgh route reveals a mix of secrets often overlooked by hurried tourists.
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20 pinned placesFeatured Places
Discover the best spots in this carefully curated guide. Each location has been personally visited and vetted to ensure an authentic and memorable experience.
Dunbars Close
Dunbar's Close feels like a secret stolen from the pages of a novel. Push open the wooden gate, step inside, and the noise of the Royal Mile evaporates. The garden is a series of beautifully kept spaces, each with its own character. Gravel paths crunch underfoot as you stroll past neatly clipped hedges and carefully tended flowers. The scent of lavender lingers in the air, mingling with the earthy smell of damp soil. It's a place that feels somehow timeless, existing just slightly out of sync with the bustling city beyond.
The Real Mary King's Close
The Real Mary King's Close is a labyrinth beneath the city. Descending into this underground maze is like stepping into a different century. Narrow, dimly lit passages lead into rooms that once bustled with life. The air is cool and slightly musty, carrying holds of stories long left untold. Guides bring the past to life with tales of plague, trade, and daily life in these buried streets. The echo of your footsteps mixes with the faint sound of the city overhead, a constant reminder of the layers of history beneath your feet.
Cockburn Street
Cockburn Street twists and turns like a river of cobblestones. It snakes its way down from the Royal Mile, lined with a mix of quirky shops and cafes. The smell of fresh coffee wafts from a nearby doorway, drawing you in. The chatter of people and the occasional clink of a shop bell create a lively soundtrack. Street art and colorful signs catch your eye at every turn. It's a street that feels alive, a place where past and present collide as you continue your descent into the heart of the city.
National Galleries of Scotland: National
The National Galleries of Scotland holds tranquility. Step inside, and the bustling city fades away. The cool air and soft lighting make it a place of reflection. Walk through the halls lined with masterpieces and let your eyes drink in the colors and brushstrokes. There’s a hushed reverence here, as if the paintings themselves are aware of their significance. The smell of varnished wood and the occasional creak of the floorboards are the only sounds in this sanctuary of art and history.
Calton Hill
Calton Hill rises sharply, offering a panorama that will make you stop in your tracks. As you climb, Edinburgh unfolds beneath you, a patchwork of rooftops and spires punctuated by the distant hills. The wind carries a fresh, grassy scent as you reach the top. The city feels both vast and intimate from here, with the historic architecture below and the sky stretching endlessly above. The distant hum of city life is a gentle reminder that you’re perched above it all, a momentary observer of the world below.
Arthur's Seat
Arthur's Seat demands an early climb. The path winds steeply, each step bringing you closer to the summit. The morning air is crisp and smells of dew and earth. As you reach the top, the city lies quiet and still, the day not yet fully awake. The view is nothing short of spectacular, a 360-degree sweep of Edinburgh against a backdrop of hills and sky. The sunrise paints the landscape in soft hues of pink and gold, a reward for those who make this predawn pilgrimage.
St Giles' Cathedral
St Giles' Cathedral stands with an air of silent majesty. Its crown-shaped spire is unmistakable against the skyline. Step inside, and the ancient stone walls seem to hum with history. The light filters through stained glass windows, casting a kaleidoscope of colors on the floor. The smell of candle wax and incense mingles with the cool, dusty scent of the stone. It’s a place of quiet contemplation, where the modern world feels distant and the echoes of the past resonate through every niche and alcove.
Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery Edinburgh
Greyfriars Kirkyard is a place of stories. The creak of the iron gate sets the scene as you enter. Tombstones lean at odd angles, each one a piece of the city's history. A chill hangs in the air, not from the cold, but from the weight of time. The hold of leaves rustling in the breeze adds a somber soundtrack. Stories of loyal dogs, haunting spirits, and notable figures are etched into the stones. Here, the past feels close enough to touch, a reminder of the lives that once filled the city.
Sheep Heid Inn Edinburgh
The Sheep Heid Inn welcomes with warmth and history. Duck your head as you enter and find yourself in a world of low, blackened beams and a fireplace that crackles invitingly. The scent of hearty meals and brewing ale fills the room. Laughter and the clinking of glasses form a cozy, familiar backdrop. This is a place where stories have been spun for centuries, where the past is part of the ambiance, and the present is made richer for it.
Leith Links
Leith Links stretches out like a green lung amidst the city's urban sprawl. The grass is soft underfoot, and the air is fresh with a hint of sea salt. Families and friends gather here, the space alive with laughter and casual games. The expanse of green is a welcome contrast to the tightly packed streets and buildings. As you stroll, the sound of children playing and distant conversations form a gentle hum. The Links is a reminder of the simple joys of open space and community.
The Scotch Whisky Experience
The Scotch Whisky Experience sits proudly near the Castle, a beacon for anyone with a taste for Scotland's most famous export. Step inside, and the rich aroma of malt and oak envelops you. A tour takes you through the craft of whisky making, each stage explained with passion and detail. The highlight is the tasting, amber liquid that warms the throat and the soul. This is a place where history, craft, and tradition blend seamlessly, offering insight into the spirit of Scotland itself.
Museum of Edinburgh
The Museum of Edinburgh is a treasure trove of the city's past. Housed in a centuries-old building, its very walls seem to tell tales. The creak of floorboards accompanies your exploration of exhibits detailing Edinburgh's history, from the everyday to the extraordinary. The smell of aged wood and old paper fills the air. It’s a place of discovery, where each room reveals another layer of the city’s multifaceted story.
Palace of Holyroodhouse
The Palace of Holyroodhouse is where history comes alive. Approach via the Abbey Strand, past the roofless ruins of Holyrood Abbey. The palace is a mix of grandeur and intimacy, each room a window into royal life. As you wander through, the scent of polished wood and stone surrounds you. Listen to the stories of Mary, Queen of Scots, and others who once called this place home. It’s a journey through time, a glimpse into the opulence and drama of Scotland's past.
Scott Monument
The Scott Monument is an intricate Gothic marvel. Rising from the east end of Princes Street Gardens, its dark stone spire is a striking silhouette against the sky. Climb the narrow spiral staircase; each step brings you closer to breathtaking views over the city. The air grows cooler as you ascend, the scent of stone and earth more pronounced. From the top, the city stretches out below, a living tableau, vibrant and ever-changing.
National Galleries Scotland: Portrait
The National Galleries Scotland: Portrait is a place of quiet contemplation. Climbing the external staircase feels like ascending into another world. Inside, the portraits watch with timeless eyes, each capturing a moment of humanity. The sound of footsteps is muffled on the carpeted floors, adding to the serene atmosphere. The cool, dry air carries a hint of varnish. It's a place where faces from the past meet the present, each portrait telling a silent story.
Bruntsfield Links
Bruntsfield Links is a stretch of greenery steeped in history. Golf has been played here since the 15th century, and the echoes of those games seem to linger in the air. As you walk, the smell of grass and the sound of leaves rustling in the wind create a sense of tranquility. Families, golfers, and dog walkers share the space, the atmosphere one of relaxed enjoyment. It's a place where the old game meets modern life, where leisure and tradition coexist.
Old Calton Cemetery
Old Calton Cemetery is a quiet corner of contemplation. set at the foot of Calton Hill, it’s a small cemetery with a powerful presence. The headstones tell stories of those who shaped the city and the country. As you wander, the subtle scent of earth and stone mingles with the sound of rustling leaves. It’s a place of reflection, where the past feels tangible, etched into the stones and the stories they tell.
The Georgian House (National Trust for Scotland)
The Georgian House on Royal Terrace is a step back in time. From the outside, it appears like any other grand townhouse, but inside it’s a carefully preserved glimpse into Georgian life. The smell of polish and old wood welcomes you as you enter. Each room is a tableau of period detail, from the ornate fireplaces to the rich fabrics. The quiet allows you to immerse yourself in the past, imagining the lives once lived within these walls.
Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh is an oasis of calm. Entering through the West Gate, the transformation is immediate. The sound of the city fades, replaced by birdsong and rustling leaves. The air is fresh and fragrant with the scent of flowers and damp earth. As you wander through themed gardens, each corner offers a new sensory experience. It’s a place of learning and beauty, where nature takes center stage.
Canongate Kirk
Canongate Kirk is a serene space amidst the bustling Canongate. Its kirkyard is small, perfectly kept, and surrounded by the stories of those who rest there. The smell of damp grass and fresh flowers mingles with the scent of old stone. The quiet is broken only by the occasional distant sound of the city. It’s a place of peace and reflection, where history and memory are preserved in the stillness.
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